Thursday 27 September 2012

Goodbye Addis Ababa, Hello Haramaya University

It's been a busy week!  The last few days of our in-country training in Addis Ababa were good fun, and included a pub quiz and a cultural evening (great band and very talented dancers), as well as more language tuition and information about our various placements.

Ethiopian coffee ceremony at the cultural evening

Ethiopian traditional dancers
We had a health sector workshop last Thursday which was led by current volunteers and included a session from an Addis-based Neonatologist about developing neonatal care in Ethiopia.  The statistics surrounding maternal and newborn health here are striking – a woman has a 1 in 67 lifetime risk of dying during pregnancy and childbirth, and 40% of child deaths occur in the first month of life.  Two current VSO volunteers told us about their incredible work in developing a neonatal unit in the south of the country – they started with an empty room and are hoping to open the unit in a couple of weeks.  We also heard from a representative from the Ministry of Health who acknowledged that working in the health sector can be very frustrating.  Supplies of drugs and equipment are often available but in a warehouse rather than in the hospital where you need them. 

After our language tuition last Saturday morning (getting to grips with conjugating regular and irregular verbs...) we went into Addis to shop for equipment for our new accommodation.  As our flat is well equipped, I took the advice of a current volunteer and bought some dried milk and custard powder - apparently good comfort food and difficult to get hold of outside Addis.  Each volunteer received a box of supplies from VSO which includes an electric stove, kerosene stove, water filter, blankets and mosquito net.  There was a demonstration of how to cook on a kerosene stove which included a tasting session afterwards.  A typical Ethiopian meal includes injera (a type of flat ‘bread’ with a crumpet-like texture) that is served with vegetables and various stews.  Lentils and chickpeas are popular, and beef seems to be the most commonly found meat.  After the shopping, some of us went to a German Beer Garden, certainly a hangout for expats and wealthy Ethiopians but it was great to eat some European food!
 
Results of the cookery class - injera at the front of the picture
Demonstration of how to put together a water filter
I left Addis Ababa early on Tuesday morning.  I flew to Dire Dawa with Susie, a lovely volunteer midwife who has been working at Haramaya University for 12 months.  We were collected from the airport and drove for about an hour to Haramaya University main campus where all five of the VSO volunteers live.  We shared the road with other vehicles, pedestrians, goats, cattle and camels!  The scenery was beautiful and the sense of space was great after a couple of weeks in Addis.  The main university campus is very green and well equipped with a couple of small shops, a staff lounge, swimming pool, a bank and a post office (hoping to open a postbox on Monday...).  Helen and I are sharing a large three bedroom apartment which is really quite plush in many ways – fridge/freezer, internet access and a better television than mine in the UK (some would say not difficult!).  In other ways it is very basic – we have one tap that works and gives us water for about two hours each day.  I am perfecting the art of washing using a bucket and a jug!  Everyone has been very friendly and we are really lucky to have three current volunteers to show us the ropes.  They have introduced us to some of their Ethiopian friends and they have met several other expatriates at the university during their time here. 

My new bedroom
 
 
 
The lounge
 
Helen sits at our rather grand dining table
 
The kitchen
 
The bathroom
The tap on the right is the one that works!
View from the front balcony...
...and from the balcony at the back
I visited the health campus and hospital in Harar with Susie yesterday.  There is a bus that leaves the main campus at 7am each morning and returns from Harar at around 5.45pm.  The journey takes about 45 minutes.  The lecture rooms and clinical skills areas are located on the health campus where I will share an office with Susie.  The hospital is about a 10 minute walk from there.  Unfortunately I was unable to meet any of the doctors yesterday as today is Meskel (Ethiopian Orthodox Christian festival – ‘the finding of the true cross’) so many people weren’t around.  Susie did give me a brief tour of the hospital and the paediatric department.  Things are very basic and there is no running water.  There was just one baby on the neonatal unit but I am sure that Jo, the previous volunteer paediatrician, would be really pleased to see that he was having regular observations.  There were only nurses and medical students on the ward but hopefully I’ll meet the doctors tomorrow and have a more formal introduction to the department.  I plan to spend the first couple of weeks meeting people and getting to know how things work.  I think a good approach will be to view every challenge as an opportunity!
   
Two of the other VSO volunteers (who we met at our in-country training) are visiting this weekend.  I hope to meet everyone in Harar tomorrow evening and watch the local ritual of men feeding hyenas.  We plan to visit the old walled city on Saturday, apparently fascinating with 368 alleyways within one square kilometre. 
 
I will be in touch again soon with more news and photographs.

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