Fond farewells

My time in Ethiopia is definitely drawing to a close and, assuming all goes according to plan, I’ll be back in the UK in just over a week.  The last few weeks have been busy but I feel happy that I have been able to handover the projects that I have started.  I hope that at least some of the changes that I have introduced will continue long after I have left.

I really enjoyed seeing my sister and her boyfriend about a month ago.  They spent ten days in Ethiopia and certainly found it a great experience.  Life here is very different but a visit definitely dispels those images of a desert landscape and starving children.  We had a couple days in a rather wet Addis Ababa before flying back here for three nights.  It was graduation weekend at the university and really lovely to see the campus and students looking so smart, we were very popular additions to peoples’ photographs!  We then travelled north to the cities of Bahir Dar, Gondar and Lalibela.  Bahir Dar sits on the edge of Ethiopia’s largest lake which is also the source of the Blue Nile.  We were able to visit the impressive Blue Nile Falls and caught up with another volunteer and some of her friends.  Gondar is a historical city and home to some beautiful castles and a pool complex.  Lalibela is the site of many of Ethiopia’s rock-hewn churches which are truly amazing.  It is impossible to comprehend how they were carved out of solid rock and the attention to detail is incredible. 

Dressed up for graduation

The Blue Nile Falls

Sampling traditional Ethiopian food in Gondar - the 'pancake' is injera, an acquired taste...

One of Gondar's historic castles

Fasilida's pool which is filled with water during religious festivals

'Bet Giyorgis' rock-hewn church in Lalibela: from above...

...and from the side

Back at the hospital I looked again at the quality of medical recordkeeping following the documentation training we delivered to the medical interns.  There were some improvements but unfortunately these weren’t consistent.  A lack of knowledge is certainly not the only barrier to improving health outcomes – attitudes and the environment are just as important.  I have spent the last couple of weeks based primarily on the paediatric ward rather than in the neonatal unit.  The range and severity of pathology is very different to that which I see at home and I have really enjoyed the interaction with the older children. 

One of the paediatric 'critical' wards

I had a farewell meal and drinks with some of my colleagues last weekend, and shared a cake with some of the students and interns on Thursday afternoon.  It has been really inspiring and encouraging to work with such enthusiastic and capable people, and I really hope that they will be supported to effect change rather than becoming worn down by a very challenging system.  My VSO Project Manager from Addis was in Harar at the end of the last week.  We held a partnership review workshop on Friday with representation from the paediatric department, hospital management and university.  It was a productive day and I am sure that there is much that VSO volunteers could contribute in the future.  Currently there is no volunteer to replace me but I hope that funding will be secured and a paediatrician will be recruited in the coming months.  I think that one of my biggest lessons over the past year is that sustainable change happens slowly and long-term commitment from organisations such as VSO is essential.

A thoughtful farewell gift - a traditional horn to signify communication of the messages that I have been spreading

There are certainly many things that I’ll miss about Ethiopia and the people I have met here but at the same time I’m very much looking forward to coming home.  I’ll finish with some thoughts about what I think I’ll miss and what I’m looking forward to.

What I’ll miss…

1.       The weather – I’m sure that fairly continual blue skies and sunshine are good for the soul!

2.       The friendliness and generosity of the Ethiopian people – people are incredibly warm, welcoming and eager to help in a way that we don’t usually see at home.  I’ll really miss the Ethiopian friends that I have made but will definitely keep in touch and hope to meet again one day.

3.       ‘Unkula firfir’ (scrambled eggs) for breakfast in the sunshine with Helen on Sunday mornings – a very pleasant way to spend an hour or two.  Helen has been a fantastic flatmate and I'll really miss her lively company. 

4.       Fruit smoothies – the ‘sprice’ (three different layers) is my favourite.

A 'sprice' fruit juice

5.       Ethiopian coffee – certainly to be recommended.  A macchiato before work has become very much part of my routine and a fraction of the cost of frothy coffee at home!

Macchiato at 'Stackbucks' (Yemage hospital is a private hospital and somewhat different to Hiwot Fana where I have been working..)

6.       Being greeted with such enthusiasm at the markets in Bate and Harar – the customer service at Waitrose is good but not that good!

Market in Harar - the women have a very impressive sense of balance

7.       Being able to eat outside all year round – I’ll have to make the most of the warm summer days when I get back and perhaps seek some winter sun later in the year.

8.       Variety of work – I have really enjoyed the mix of clinical work, teaching and service development.  

9.       The enthusiasm and knowledge of the medical students and interns – they have lifted me when things have been tough and help me to feel positive about the future here.

10.   The opportunities for travel – Ethiopia is a really beautiful and diverse country which has been a real privilege to explore.

What I’m looking forward to…

1.       Catching up with friends and family – I’m really looking forward to seeing everyone again, meeting new additions to families and sharing my experiences.

2.       Moving back into my flat in Bristol (and hoping it’s as I left it…)

3.       Flushing toilets with toilet paper!

4.       Running water (that you can drink) and a hot shower every day – we all have an amazing ability to adapt to new surroundings but you don’t know what you’ve got until it’s gone…

If the tap is broken, just add another!

5.       Wine!  The beer here has been a reasonable substitute but Ethiopian wine doesn’t resemble anything I’m used to…

6.       Being able to buy meat and fish – I have become an expert in vegetarian cookery (or perhaps more accurately cooking with potatoes, onions and tomatoes) as butchers are a different concept here.

7.       Cereal and yoghurt –I’ve enjoyed my ‘ferengi gunfo’ ('white person’s porridge') each morning but some ‘Dorset cereals’ museli and yoghurt will be near the top of my list of things to have once I’m back at home.

8.       Reliable electricity and internet access – again, you don’t know what you’ve got until it’s gone…

9.       Being able to walk to work – a great way to start and finish the working day.

10.    Accountability in the workplace – I think attitudes and accountability have been two of my biggest frustrations at work.  Things are by no means perfect in the UK but they are very, very different.